Many women may laugh at this title because it goes without saying that women sport the cut off shorts with graphic tee combo after 35 years of age, but so many of my clients fight me on it. Their worries range from fear of age-appropriate judgment to body issues. For them, I have created this post.

You’ve Got It, Flaunt It

I have many clients with dynamite bodies who want to avoid the judgment of wearing cut off shorts in their 40s, or who are scared to be caught wearing the same cut off shorts their daughter is wearing. To this, all I have to say is let’s move on from that. You can wear whatever you want. Your thighs are gorgeous, and it’s warm out. Cut off shorts are completely okay. There is no fashion police, and many women are already doing it. It’s safe — I promise.

But Skip The Skimp

My only rule of thumb for women wearing cut off shorts, at any age, is to skip anything that actually shows the curvature of your bum, and skip the overly distressed shorts that show skin between the threads. These are not chic looks.

Tip: Do you like the distressed look, but don’t like your skin showing through? Have your tailor back up the distressed parts to cover any peeking skin. This also protects your distressed jeans from becoming overly distressed, and you from accidentally sticking your toes through the holes when putting the shorts on.

Cut Off Shorts For The Body Conscious

Many of my clients are insecure about their varicose veins, skin color, inner thigh shape, or simply putting their bare butt on a chair, an inevitable issue when wearing short shorts. For them, I recommend cut off shorts with a three or four-inch inseam, like the shorts pictured on me. You get the casual cool edge of cut offs, without the connotation of short-shorts or sloppiness. I recently put cut off shorts on a woman who is almost 60 and she looked fantastic. It’s all about the right shorts for you, and pairing them in a way that works with your personal style. If the graphic tee is too casual or too “youthful” for you, try a white casual button front shirt.

The Right Graphic Tee

As for the graphic tee, you want something fresh and casually sophisticated. Skip the brands, the vulgarity, the air-head phrases, and negativity (“But first, coffee”), and go for a classic graphic. Perhaps it’s a city you love, a simple drawing, a timeless charm, or a language you speak (or would like to speak – I’m looking at you French!). J.Crew always has a few cute graphic tees, as does Sub_Urban Riot.

Tip: You can always search your favorite retailer with the term “Graphic Tee” and filter to the right category to see what strikes you.

[shop/]

The Graphic Tees To Avoid

Avoid graphics that consume the whole shirt, or feel like something that a college boy or girl in the Greek system would wear. Generally, I like to avoid large letters or large images. Keep the graphic small-ish. You don’t want bold lettering that makes its way to your belly button.

Tip: If a graphic across your bust just isn’t you, try a cheeky micro print graphic.

Photos by Dayley Photography

My blog posts are my honest and personal opinion. Sometimes my content includes products sent from brands or PR firms. In this case, I was sent samples from FitFlop and Kindom. If I am sent something that is unimpressive or boring I don’t write about it.

Upgrade your cooking routine with the Healthy Choice 3L Digital Air Fryer. This elegant black appliance with exclusive gold trim offers a 3.0L capacity, allowing you to create delicious meals with ease. With four pre-set cooking programs and adjustable temperature settings, it brings convenience to your kitchen. Say goodbye to excessive oil and embrace healthier cooking options. Enjoy the benefits of this sleek and efficient air fryer.

EESS Equipment number: E2023101338

Features:u0026nbsp;

• Simply add your ingredients into its 3.0 litre pan capacity and wait as the air fryer circulates, superheated air up to 200 degrees Celsius.
• This is not an ordinary air fryer it features a unique pan drawer that increases the capacity size when you take out the removable pan insert.
• Cook your meals in style with this elegant black shade with exclusive gold trim
• The 3.0L Air Fryer is easy to control simply set one of the four pre-set control cooking programs, set the temperature and walk away.
• Eliminating the extra cooking oil allows the family to enjoy healthy meals

Specifications:u0026nbsp;

• 3.0L Air Fryer
• 4 pre-set touch control programs
• Delay function between 30 minutes and 24 hours
• Non-stick detachable drawer and pan insert
• Dishwasher safe parts
• Capacity: 3.0L
• Timer: 1 60 minutes
• Temperature: 80C 200C
• Measurements: 31.8cm x 21.6cm x 26.5cm
• Weight: 3.4kg

Includes:

• 1x Air fryer
• 1x Grill
• 1x User manual

• Healthy ceramic non-stick coating
• 360 See- Thru Lid Design
• LED display with touchscreen
• Auto-off function
• 6.5L Basket
• 7 functions: Air- fry, Roast, Bake, Reheat, Defrost, Keep Warm, Delay Start plus timer up to 60 minutes
• 13 One-touch presets: Air Fry, Fries, Chicken Legs, Chicken, Steak, Bake, Fish, Bacon, Vegetables, Reheat, Defrost, Keep Warm, and Delay Start

This Pronti Family Convection Turbo Oven Broiler comes with extender ring which extends capacity to 17L.

Turbo Oven uses convection heat and fan to cook healthy low fat meals speedily. They are versatile and can bake, steam, roast, broil, toast, grill and even thaw most frozen food. This particular model is easy to use with timer u0026amp; temperature control dials, indicator lights and cool touch handles.

Package includes Stainless steel extender ring, low rack, high rack, tongs, bread rack, skewer u0026amp; operation manual.

CONTENTS: * 17L Convection Oven * Stainless steel extender ring * Low rack * High rack * Tongs * Operation manual * Lid Holder * Bread Rack * Skewer

• 1200-1400W convection heat cooking
• 17L halogen oven
• Stainless steel extender ring
• Timer u0026amp; Temperature Control
• Portable – Sits on Bench or Table Top
• Up to 50% faster than regular convention ovens
• Low fat cooking u0026amp; seal natural juices
• Roast, bake, steam, broil, toast, grill
• Defrost function to thaw most frozen food
• Tempered glass bowl u0026amp; glass lid
• Detachable plastic base
• 220V-240V, 50HZ
• SAA plug, Rubber power cord
• Heater: Halogen tube
• Dimensions: 51(H) x 35(W) x 31(D)cm

The first thing you want to do before any digging an inground pool in your yard is make a call to Dig Safe. In some areas it may be called something different like Call Before You Dig or some other name, but this is a law. If this is not done, not only is it not safe but if you hit some utilities underground you will be fined and be responsible for the repair cost.

1. Check for Underground Concerns

There is now a national Call Before You Dig line, just call 811 to reach this free service. Usually within 48 hours, they will have a county official come to your property and mark all of the underground utilities. They use a different colored paint for gas, electric, water and cable.

Sprinklers

Before you dig your pool, check for things such as underground sprinkler lines that possibly can be either removed from the area or at least remove the sprinkler heads, as they are the most expensive parts. You may want to mark on a plot plan where each of the heads you removed goes, to make it easier to find when construction is done.

Septic Fields

Leach fields for a septic tank may have been shown in a different area on the plot plan at your city or town but were actually installed right where your proposed pool is going. This happens occasionally when the contractor changed the location and never changed it with the town. In older communities, you may encounter long forgotten leach fields, built before city water and sewer was brought to your area.

Tree Roots

Things such as trees should not be near the pool area for a few reasons. Eventually the root system may work its way towards the pool and undermine the pool liner. Also, leaves or pine needles falling from the tree into the water can be a headache. Shade from trees will keep your water cooler, which can raise heating costs.

Boulders

You may encounter boulders the size of bowling balls, no problem. But if you find very large boulders, a skilled excavator can maneuver them out of the ground in most cases. If it is too big for the bucket size, large boulders can be strap lifted out of the pool. They can then become part of your post pool construction landscape.

Water

When you dig a pool, hitting water is fairly common. Depending on where you hit water and how it is coming in, there are different solutions to handle the water.

If you dig a pool to 8 ft deep and you hit water at the 7 ft mark, what you would do is over-dig the bottom floor. Dig into the side slopes 1 ft more and 1 ft deeper in the bottom depth, making your 8 ft deep end – 9 ft deep. Have a few yards of gravel delivered, enough to bring the level back to your 8 ft depth. Sometimes this will be enough to fix the problem and allow the pool construction to continue. You may have to put a sump pump in the bottom to keep out the water if the stone alone does not work.

In more extreme water problems a french drain may need to be installed. This is an 3 or 4 inch under ground drainage pipe, buried in the stone at the deepest point. The drain pipe runs out of the pool (under walls), and connects to a self priming pump outside the pool. If you have to do this you would keep the pump running until the pool is built and full of water and only at that point can you shut the pump off.

2. Mark the Area, Remove the Grass

Before you start the dig process you want to stake out your pool to know exactly what and where to dig. First, mark the over dig area – this is generally 5 ft longer and 5 ft wider than your actual pool size – with paint or flour, something you can see. For example, if you have a 16 x 32 pool your over dig would be 21 x 37.

Some rental shops have a sod cutter machine that you could use to replant your grass in another area, if you wish. You definitely want to keep the topsoil, or the first 6-12″, which is of better quality than the deeper dirt.

Going one step further with this, let’s say you are looking to build a concrete pool deck around your pool, 4 ft on the long sides and the deep end wall and 10 ft behind your shallow end, walk-in steps. Adding up your width, we have 23′ for pool and bracing + 8 ft of decking for a total width 31 ft. For length, we have 45′ + 14′ of decking. 59′ total. Mark out the overall 31′ x 59′ area with lime or paint or 4 stakes and string lines. This area includes any planned decking.

3. Dig the Shoebox

Once you have stripped the top soil you can start digging down to a flat, shoebox shape, 42″ deep (the wall height of the pool). You will end up with a large hole 5 ft longer and wider than your pool size, and a flat and even 42″ depth overall.

Dig the area down to the shallow end depth all throughout the pool area. You will also need to make this area level, so it may be different depths around the pool if the yard has a slope.

You can dig this part of the pool using a front loader, or a small Bobcat type of skid steer loader. A skilled operator will have an easier time than one who is not, however, if there is room to move around, even amateurs can successfully dig a pool.

4. Stakes & Strings

Once you have the ‘shoebox’ dug, it’s time to stake out your pool. Measure in 2.5 ft in from the over dig all the way around. Using our 16×32 pool size example, square up the 16 x 32 pool area within the 21 x 37 over dig area. Place a pin or stake in each of the 4 corners and a string line all around to make up your pool.

Locate the Break

From the shallow end on our 16 x 32 we measure down the 32 ft side – 8 ft, (from points 5 to 4 and 6 to 7). This is the end of our shallow area, known as the “break” from the shallow section to the sloped section. Run a string line across the pool, from point 4 to 7, now we have our shallow end located.

Locate the Hopper

The slope length is 14 ft, so we measure at the base of the wall from point 4 to point 3, and then the opposite side, from pt 7 to pt 8. Put a pin on each side, just below the wall (indicated by the red dots). This is where our slope ends and the hopper pad or the flat bottom begins. Run a string line across the pool, from point 3 to point 8.

Now we measure 6 ft along the base of the wall, from point 3 to 2, and from point 8 to 9. This lays out the other side of the flat, 8 ft deep bottom. What you should have left is 4 ft to the end of the pool., or from point 2 to 1 and 9 to 10.

Now we move to the width or the ends of the pool. Measure 4 ft from the deep end corner pins on the pool and place a pin at points A, B, C and D. Run a string line from shallow end pins to deep end pins, or from A to B and C to D.

Now you will have a 6 x 8 rectangle made by the intersection of the string lines towards the deep end of the pool. This is your deep end flat hopper pad.

5. Dig the Deep End

Replace them with bright paint to help the excavator locate the hopper bottom. Start digging out the square hopper, digging down 4 ft-8 in more (from the 42″ depth) to make it 8 ft deep at the pool bottom.

Once you reach that depth in the flat, start from the corners of the hopper bottom and dig up to the back wall of your deep end and that will be your back slope. Now go from either side of the deep up to the side walls to get your side slopes. Finally, work on the slope from points 4 and 7, to the near corners of the hopper bottom. You now have the pool rough-dug.

Usually we want to start digging from the deep end wall back towards the shallow end. Dig the hopper out first, then dig away the back wall, following the strings marking the angles from deep end wall corner to deep end hopper bottom. As you back up out of the deep end, you can shape the side walls, following the string from end of shallow floor to beginning of hopper bottom. Alternatively, you can dig the deep end angled walls from up above the pool, with the long arm of the excavator.

Replace the string lines used to locate the hopper bottom, and use a plumb bob to double check the location, and to measure the depth of your hopper bottom. At the correct depth for your pool bottom should be 2″ deeper than your finished depth This 2″ depth will be filled with your finishing floor material.

It’s likely that you’ll need some flat shovels and trowels to perfect the angles of the walls, or the joint where the deep end wall sections come together. It won’t need to be perfect, because you’ll be adding 1-2″ of floor material, but it should be pretty close to the original spec shape before beginning the floor work.

6. Shaping the Contours

Now it’s time to start shaping the pool hopper bottom and get the floor ready for the pool liner. We start by locating the finished level of the pool floor by marking a line on your pool walls, which are generally 42″ in height. Measure down the pool wall from the top to a point at 40″. With a Sharpie or Magic Marker, draw a line around the pool walls, this is the finished grade level, or the level of the floor.

Place the stakes

Place stakes in the four corners of the pool, right up against the wall. Run a tight sting between these four corner stakes, at the level of the mark that you have drawn on the base of the pool walls. Your stakes should be 18-24″ long, so that they don’t move with the pull of the string, or if they happen to get kicked or knocked about by the digging operation. A piece of re-bar is usually the best material to use for these stakes. With a sledge hammer or maul, pound the stakes firmly into the ground, with 3″ sticking up above ground. The string lines should line up, or be at the same level as the 40″ mark that you drew on the walls, which will represent the finished floor level.

Assuming that the pool has a shallow area slope and a deep end, let’s continue to mark out the floor shape. With your spec sheet or pool plan diagram in hand, check the length of the shallow end floor. For purposes of illustration, let’s assume a 16’x 32′ rectangle pool. For this size, our shallow end will be 8 ft long (and 16′ wide). Place two stakes on each side of the pool, exactly 8 feet from the shallow end corner stake. Run a tight string across the pool between the two stakes to indicate the end of the shallow floor and the beginning of the slope. This transition is usually referred to as the “break”.

Measure the stakes

Next, measure from the first set of stakes 14 feet, towards the deep end. Keep the measuring tape horizontal, running parallel with the 40″ mark that you drew on the walls. Don’t measure “down the slope”, but keep the measuring tape at the level of the 40″ mark. At the 14′ mark, position two more stakes – on both sides of the pool. This marks the end of the slope and the beginning of the deep end hopper bottom. Set these stakes right up against the pool wall, on both sides. Run another tight string across the width of the pool, between these two stakes.

From the point of this stake that marks the beginning of the deep end floor, measure another 6 feet towards the deep end wall, along the 40″ mark that was drawn along the base of the wall. This will indicate the end of, or the back side of, the deep end floor. Again, place two stakes – up against the wall, at this measured point, and run a tight string across the width of the pool. You should now have 4ft remaining, from this stake to the deep end corner stakes.

Measure the deep end

Now measure across the string line that runs across the back wall, or deep end, of the pool. Measure in 4 ft from each corner stake in both the deep end and the shallow end of the pool. Place 2 more stakes against the deep end walls, and run a tight string from these stakes to two shallow end stakes – also positioned 4 ft from the corner. You will now have a square across the deep end of the pool, where the strings intersect. This square indicates your 8 ft deep bottom pad. To be sure that the measurements are correct, measure diagonally across the square, to make sure the two measurements match exactly.

Next, we will precisely locate the 4 corners of the bottom pad, or deep end floor. At the point where the string cross for your bottom pad, take another stake and hold it right underneath the intersections of the strings, and pound it in place, into the four deep end corners of the pool floor. Tie a tight string between all four bottom pad stakes, 2″ above the ground, and take another set of cross measurements, to insure that the pad is square.

Run the strings

From the two stakes placed on the back side of the deep end floor pad, you will now run tight strings to the stakes located in the deep end corners. These strings will be running at an upward angle, from the deep end floor, to the deep end corner stakes, at the base of the walls. From your 2 shallow end side corner stakes on the bottom pad, run string lines up to the stakes that were placed at the end of the shallow floor, or the break. This will designate the point where the angled side walls will intersect the slope from shallow to deep.

At this point, you can remove the strings and stakes that are intersecting across the hopper bottom, at the level of the shallow end floor. Your stakes & strings should now look like this.

Now you can finish digging out the floor to these contours. The angle from the bottom of the wall to the floor should be even, and close to 45 degrees in the deep end and 30 degrees going up the slope to the shallow end floor. After the heavy equipment has removed most of the material, you can get in there with a flat shovel and smooth out the rough stuff, to help to better define the angles beneath the strings. Leave a 2″ gap between your string lines and the floor, to allow for the floor material that you will add on top of the bare earth.

What to Ask the Excavators For

Tell them that you are looking for an experienced pool digger. Their next question for you may be “What do you want done with the dirt?” Meaning, are they just going to pile it up next to the pool, or do you want them to spread the dirt or grade it, over an adjacent area, or do you also need a dump truck to haul off extra fill dirt?

You may be surprised at the amount of dirt that will come out of the hole dug for your pool, so it’s important to plan ahead. When we built my pool, I thought I had a large enough yard to sort of “absorb” the dirt into other areas, but ended up having to haul off five dump trucks full of dirt.

You’ll need about 20% of the dirt, for use backfilling the pool walls and pipe trenches. But the rest of it – could you make a small hillside, or add it to steep areas on the property? Use it for raised bed garden planters? If you can’t use it on the property, you can ask for a price to haul off extra dirt.

Free Fill Dirt 

After looking at your yard the excavator can tell you if they are going to need fill removed from the site or not and if so should be able to tell you about how many loads will need to be removed. You will also need to find a place to bring it to. I asked neighbors and actually got rid of 3 loads right on my street. I found a construction site a few miles away; they couldn’t use it but told me of another site that would accept all I could bring them. Not having to drive long distances to dump the dirt saved me a lot of money.

What Type of Excavation Equipment?

An experienced pool excavation company won’t ask you which type of equipment you want them to use, they’ll know. Most pools are dug using an excavator or track hoe. Bobcat type skid steer loaders can do some early work, but their low bucket is less effective on shaping the hopper bottom floor of vinyl inground pools. A backhoe can be used, anything with an extension bucket, really. The larger the machine, the faster and easier the job will be.

Backfilling the Pool

After the pool is dug, the walls can be connected, floor work completed, pool liner installed and the pool can be filled with water. Once the plumbing is seen to be free of leaks, the pipe trenches are filled, and the space behind the pool walls is filled in. In my case, I had the same excavators return, a few days after they dug the pool, to backfill around the pool, and then I had them remove the extra dirt.

What’s it Cost to Dig a Pool?

I just had my pool built and I found a very experienced excavator at $85 per hour and it worked out to be $850 to dig the pool. That was for an 18 x 38 double roman shape pool This was a very good price as this contractor dug pools for a living, and knew that I was in the business. Generally, if you find a price for a 16 x 32 from $900 to $1,200 – that’s a pretty good price. For your pool site and size, take into consideration how much they have to do for your particular situation.

But realize that once they start digging your pool, the price could change. When unforeseen things occur like underground water or huge boulders, a flat rate price usually goes up to take care of those problems. At that point when these things arise he should be able to let you know the approximate cost to handle the problem.

By showing them your dig sheet and looking at your yard they should be able to give you an idea of the cost. Some price it out by the hourly rate, some will give you a price for the complete dig.

Payment to Excavators

In my situation the digger wanted to be paid in full at the end of the day after the dig was complete. Some may want a deposit to secure a dig date. Most will take checks or credit cards, although for my “special deal” – I had to pay in cash.

Dig your Own Pool?

You can always rent the equipment and dig it yourself – but I really would only do this if you are very familiar with digging and using the machinery. Do not rent the machine and practice on your pool, it could become very costly. What you could do, if you really want to play in the dirt – is rent a bobcat, and use it to spread the extra dirt in areas of your property, or use it to fill a dump truck if needed. These tasks, which will be needed – are less precise operations than the task of digging the pool shape to the spec sheet.

Access 

You are going to need at a bare minimum, 12 ft wide open space, to get an excavator into the back yard. More than 12 would be extremely helpful, but less than that could be tight. You’ll need an equal amount of clear vertical space too, without hanging tree branches or wires in the way. The excavator will also need to move around the pool while working, and needs at least 12 ft of room on two sides of the pool to operate easily, and move the dirt around.

It’s not uncommon to have to remove a tree or two that may be in the way of the excavator accessing the site or moving around while digging, or filling a dump truck, so plan the entire route with your contractor beforehand.

Weather

One of the main things that can put a damper on your pool dig is weather, rain being the hardest to deal with, it is awful tough to dig a good pool in mud so I would check the forecast first and if you have to postpone a day or so it will be well worth it. Cold weather – where you already have frost in the ground is not very conducive to digging a pool either. It’s best to have average daily temperatures above 45 degrees, so the ground is not so hard to work with.

If all goes well, you’ll have just a small amount of hand shaping to do, to sharpen up some corners, or patch up any cave-ins, a result of soft or wet soils. Here’s some related posts that could be helpful for planning the excavation of your own inground pool kit.

Of course, you can always talk with us before and during your pool dig, if you run into something you are unsure about, or just a little apprehensive.

When you purchase your inground pool kit from In The Swim – we’re with you every step of the way, from layout to landscaping!

In most areas of the country when building an inground pool, permits along with inspections are required as with any construction process. Structural, Electrical and Plumbing inspections during construction, and a Final inspection when you finish building your inground pool.

Electrical inspections 

Include the grounding and bonding of the pool walls, coping, anchor sockets, the electrical equipment – and inspection of PVC electrical conduit for the pool lights and the electrical boxes and conduit at the pool equipment pad.

Structural inspections 

Consists of checking that your concrete collar has provided the pool walls with enough support. Schedule this inspection after the concrete collar, or foundation of the pool is poured.

Plumbing inspections 

Permits are not usually needed for pool plumbing lines but would be required for gas piping if you are going to have a gas heater. Part of this inspection may include a pressure test on the gas line so the inspector can see it holds pressure without leaks.

After the pool is built you will need a Final inspection which is basically a safety inspection, that would include things such as pool alarm if required, door or window alarms, and fencing. The electrical inspector may also want a final inspection to make sure everything is wired properly and working. And if gas piping was done a final on that after it has been connected to the heater.

Working with Pool Construction Inspectors

Inspections are usually performed by different inspectors, specialized in the trade of either structure, electric, or plumbing (which includes gas). Inspectors are usually state or local government employed, and are found in the local Building and Zoning Department in your area.

Scheduling inspections should be done ahead of time as in the building season the inspectors are usually backed up and need substantial notice. Remember, if you are not ready you can always postpone an inspection but at least you have an appointment. In my area, inspectors are available to take phone calls for an hour in the morning, and an hour in the afternoon. This is so you can call with any questions or to schedule your inspections. During other times of the day, they are usually out of the office, doing inspections!

Your inspectors can be a good resource for any questions regarding the pool construction process. They may also be able to give good referrals to sub-contractors such as fence, concrete, or excavation companies. Their main purpose [of building inspectors] is to protect the public they serve. Building codes are written and rewritten, to keep our structures, such as pools, safe for use.

Pool Construction Inspection Failure

Most inspections pass without a problem, when you have planned your DIY pool project carefully, and followed the pool construction requirements of the permit agency. SPP pool kit customers have very few problems in this area, if they have taken advantage of our free DIY pool construction support. Here’s some issues I have seen that failed inspections.

You may fail the foundation inspection (the concrete collar), by not having enough concrete around the pool walls to sufficiently lock in the walls. Some people try to get away with only pouring concrete around each A-frame brace but this is not enough. Most inspectors are looking for a completely contiguous “collar” of concrete around the base of the walls.

Electrical inspections can fail by not bonding the pool properly. Requirements vary by region, and even by inspector. Some want every individual wall panel bonded, some will only require 6 or 8 bonding lugs, around the pool. For electrical, it is best to speak to your inspector ahead of time to see what is required in your area.

For gas piping inspections, lack of a shut off valve, or the incorrect pipe size, can doom the gas inspection. For the Final inspection, not having the right safety equipment such as door alarms, or a fence of the proper type and height, with self latching gates.

Surprises can happen

When we built my own inground pool last summer, I had a problem with one of my inspections involving the placement of my pool heater. I knew that it must be located 4 ft from the house, and also 4 ft from any doors or windows, which it was. However, I was only 3 ft from my cellar door hatch, which leads down to my basement and was told I needed to move it another foot away from that also. I could have argued with the inspector, that it was not part of the code, but I have found over the years of building pools that it is better to do what the inspector wants and avoid confrontation – to make the rest of the inspection process go smoothly.

In most cases it is how your inspector interprets the code and sometimes not the actual way the code reads, sometimes it is not always cut and dry. do not forget your inspector has the final say and he can make your pool construction project run into delays and extra expense by making you redo steps you already took.

Final thoughts on Pool Construction Inspections

• When obtaining your permit – get information on the pool inspection process.
• Know what to expect, and ask questions if you have any concerns.
• Schedule your inspections ahead of time, reschedule if you aren’t ready.
• Do not argue with Inspectors, Make them happy instead.

At In The Swim, we love hot tubs and spas, and know that a lot of our pool owner customers also own hot tubs. With pool season winding down and hot tub season picking up, our thoughts turn to hot water, very hot water, in this case.

Though it’s not a topic that garners a lot of attention, heat strokes do claim lives. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), approximately 1220 people in the United States are killed by extreme heat every year. While most heat stroke cases do not occur in a hot tub, it can happen. 

It doesn’t happen all at once, most victims of hyperthermia pass through several stages of heat-related symptoms – heat fatigue, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke.

Heat Fatigue

• Excessive sweating
• Cramps, spasm, or pain
• Headaches or light-headedness

Heat Exhaustion

• Cold, pale, wet skin and heavy sweating
• Fast, yet weak pulse
• Nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea
• Strong thirst, difficulty with focus
• Headaches, dizziness, weakness

Heat Stroke

• Hot, red or dry skin
• Fast, deep breathing
• Disorientation or confusion
• Blurred vision, lack of coordination
• Fainting or losing consciousness

What You Should Know

The maximum hot tub temperature for healthy adults is 104° F. Higher temperatures can happen with a malfunctioning thermostat or a homemade hot tub, without proper safety controls installed.

Hot tub temperatures above 104° can raise the internal body temperature too high, and can progress from feeling light-headed or dizzy, to fainting or passing out. Losing consciousness while using a spa or hot tub can lead to drowning.

Using alcohol or drugs while in a hot tub can exacerbate issues of overheating, dehydration and fainting, while increasing heart rates and respiration levels.

Pregnant women should avoid hot tubs due to the effects that high temperatures can have on an unborn child. Use of high temperature spas and saunas have been shown to increase the rates of certain birth defects. Soaking in lower temperature water of 98° – 99° is generally considered safe, however.

Small children should also avoid using hot tubs at 104° primarily because children can overheat and dehydrate faster than adults. Open the spa cover and turn down the thermostat to 100°. After cooling, check your hot tub thermometer before the children enter the water.

Hypertensive people, or those with high blood pressure or heart disease conditions are also encouraged to soak at temperatures less than 100°. Higher water temperatures can elevate blood pressure by dilating blood vessels.

Limited soaking time is the another way to avoid overheating in the hot tub. Hot tub sessions should last no more than 10 or 15 minutes.

Be careful exiting a spa as it is common to feel lightheaded, and cold and uncomfortable when standing up and getting out of a spa. Be sure to use a spa handrail and spa step carefully when your head is light and your legs like rubber!

America has no shortage of natural disasters – Earthquakes in the west, Hurricanes in the south and Tornadoes across the Midwest. Freak fires and floods are frequent, nearly anywhere.

Swimming pools, not surprisingly, are affected by all of these natural disasters. Some effects are minor – while other calamity can spell catastrophe for a swimming pool.

EARTHQUAKES AND POOLS

Often thought to be a west coast concern, specifically California – earthquake risk is high in some surprising parts of the country (see map). They come without warning, and even if you had warning, what would you do?

Earthquake damage to swimming pools is rare. During an earthquake, the pool water shakes and sloshes, but in most cases, the pool will suffer no damage.

There are of course, cases where pools have become cracked, tilted, or suffered broken pipes from strong ground movement around the pool. In 2011, the Trefethen Aquatic Center at Mills College developed a nice crack above the gutter system, after only a 3.2 magnitude quake near Oakland, California.

Also in 2011, across the country in Mineral, Virginia, a 5.8 quake was felt all the way to New York. Verna Rogers, a retired Geologist in Lynchburg, Va, was skimming her pool when the quake began. “I knew immediately what it was”, she said. The pool was fine, just the water was dancing and rippling.

There was little damage caused in general by the Virginia earthquake. Residents of the area were rather unimpressed by the event, although most reported that it was “kinda cool” to experience an earthquake.

FIRES AND POOLS

Home fires or nearby forest fires can make a real mess of a pool, with ashes and soot – possible debris. But even in fire-ravaged 2012, damage to pools was rare.

Fire is one of the 7 enemies of a pool cover, and sparks and embers could melt holes in nearly any pool cover type.

In a home or forest fire, swimming pools can actually be the hero, and save the day, as happened in Manorville, NY last year. Forest fires approached a home without a nearby fire hydrant, and after the trucks ran out of water, quick thinking West Sayville, NY firefighters began pumping water out of the pool to keep the forest fire at bay.

The owner was grateful that the house remained intact, even though the fire consumed the pool house. The pool was not harmed, just had to refill the 3+ feet removed to fight the fire. Full story here.

You can set up a home fire protection system, using your swimming pool water, in the event of a fire emergency. By switching a valve to pump from the main drain only, and opening another valve once the hose is rolled out, you can have a fire hose on hand, using water from the pool.

Portable pool fire pumps have proven effective at saving millions of dollars in property damage. Your swimming pool could help out in a fire emergency – on your home, or the home of your neighbor. With enough discharge hose, swimming pool fire pumps can put the water where you want it. Portable, gas powered pumps such as these can also be used on a river or lake – any body of water.

My preferred type of pump for this use as a portable firefighting pump would be a small Honda semi-trash pump with 2″ suction and discharge ports, such as this Honda Semi-Trash pump found at Northern Tool., which pumps over 10000 gallons per hour (!).

Setting up your pool filter pump to deliver emergency fire water is also not hard, as described above. You only need a separate main drain valve, or a way to pump the water level below the skimmer, and you can pump 3000-7000 gallons per hour (depending on the size of your pool filter pump). Pump it out through the backwash hose, or connect the hose to a 3-way valve connected between the pump and filter.

FLOODS AND POOLS

Overflowing river banks, tidal floods and hurricane rains can cause severe damage to pools and pool equipment. The most common problem at the equipment pad can be ruined pool pumps and heaters. Rushing waters can sweep away pool equipment, slides or even pool decks!

Flooding waters that enter a swimming pool can bring all types of organic waste, phosphates, nitrates and pollutants. And mud, lots of silty dirt. In a worst case scenario, a drain and clean of the pool may be needed, to clean pool surfaces and replace contaminated waters.

Aboveground pools may have a distinct advantage against flooding, over inground pools, which are less than a foot above the surrounding terrain. These pools here are quite clean during the flood, but imagine the mud and stains when the water recedes. Not a pretty sight. And the pool equipment, at least the pump, is undoubtedly ruined.

If enough water soaks into low lying terrain around a swimming pool – the worst thing imaginable can occur. A 10 ton inground pool can actually be lifted out of the ground, when underground water pressure is greater than the weight of the pool. Flooding is indeed the most serious of all natural disasters to affect swimming pools.

TORNADOES AND POOLS

You’ve seen the destruction of twisters and tornadoes on television. In places like Moore, Oklahoma – and other mid-western cities in “Tornado Alley”, whole neighborhoods are completely destroyed. It must be the most frightening experience to see a dark funnel cloud heading your direction.

The damage caused by twisters are in many cases worse than that caused by other natural disasters. Swirling winds of 100 miles per hour, could completely demolish an aboveground pool, or fill an inground pool with debris from all over the neighborhood.

In this photo, debris fills the swimming pool of Gary and Barbara Tucker in Piedmont, Oklahoma. Their pool may be in better shape than their home, unfortunately.

Tornadoes and twisters can be found in most areas of the eastern two thirds of the United States, when weather conditions are right.

PREPARING FOR DISASTER

What can you do? Nearly nothing. In most cases, it’s best not to put the cover on the pool, which can blow away or be damaged by flying debris, or burned with hot fire embers.

For heavy winds or flooding, remove any loose items from around the pool, including cleaning tools, toys, furniture and pool cleaners, and store them safely. Loose skimmer lids can be screwed in place or stored indoors.

If your pool pump is removable, move it to higher ground before the waters rise, to save the expense of motor replacement.

Really, there is little you can do to protect your pool equipment and pool from natural disasters like fires, floods, earthquakes and twisters. Just make sure you keep yourself and your family safe – don’t worry about the pool. It’ll be fine.

Want more? See the sequel post: Floods, Fires & Twisters: Natural Pool Disasters II