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Barcelona chief Abidal in the dark over Rabiot snub

September 7, 2019 | News | No Comments

The France midfielder was expected to move to Camp Nou after leaving Paris Saint-Germain, but instead chose to join Juventus

Barcelona director of football Eric Abidal admits he does not know why midfielder Adrien Rabiot chose to join Juventus over the Spanish champions.

Rabiot, 24, left Paris Saint-Germain after his contract in the French capital expired and it had been widely reported that he had agreed to move to Barcelona.

But instead of the Catalan giants, the France international chose to join Italian champions Juve, where he may line up in midfield alongside fellow free transfer signing Aaron Ramsey.

“He was on our list [of targets] and it was his choice to join Juventus,” Abidal told Le Parisien.

“I do not know the reasons. It may have been a sporting choice or a financial decision, I don’t know.”

Tall at 6’2” but graceful and measured in his play, Rabiot was a wanted man among Europe’s top clubs after falling out of favour at PSG.

He joined the club as a youngster in 2010, having previously also spent time at Manchester City, and went on to make 150 league appearances in France.

During his time in Paris, Rabiot won five Ligue 1 titles, four Coupes de France, and five Coupes de la Ligue.

However, his last season at the club brought just 20 appearances, including just 14 in the league.

He attracted controversy in March after going to a nightclub after PSG’s Champions League exit at the hands of Manchester United, as well as liking an Instagram post by former United man Patrice Evra celebrating the win. He was promptly suspended by the club.

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Now with Juventus, he is bedding in at his new side and will be hoping to play some part as they gear up for the new season with the International Champions Cup, and fixtures with Tottenham, Inter and Atletico Madrid.

New manager Maurizio Sarri will be implementing his patented take on the 4-3-3 which served him at Napoli and Chelsea, and Rabiot’s ability on the ball makes him an option for the ‘Sarriball’ system.

The pressure to succeed will be immediate for both player and manager as Juve target a ninth consecutive Serie A title and tangible progress in the Champions League.

The Red Devils beat his Spurs side 2-1 in the International Champions Cup, but Pochettino was left apologising for his players’ aggression

Mauricio Pochettino has apologised to Manchester United over Tottenham’s tough tackles during Thursday’s International Champions Cup game.

Angel Gomes hit a late winner for United after Lucas Moura’s deflected shot cancelled out Anthony Martial’s opener in China.

Eric Bailly hurt his knee trying to block a shot from Son Heung-min and United’s new winger Daniel James seemed to be targeted by Tottenham throughout, with Moussa Sissoko appearing to stamp on the 21-year-old following a first-half challenge by the corner flag.

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And Pochettino acknowledged his side were perhaps overly aggressive in their 2-1 defeat.

“I was a little bit annoyed about some situations, I was not happy,” the Tottenham boss told reporters. “It was a friendly game and in some situations of course when you are tired, when it’s so hot you are not right with the tempo to arrive at the actions, sometimes you arrive late and something can happen.

“I apologise on behalf of our players to Manchester United.”

Pochettino added: “It wasn’t their intention, but sometimes when you are tired you arrive late and some things can happen.

“And I was worried because in this period of preparation it is sometimes you need to be aggressive and you need to play with passion but sometimes the focus is to build your fitness and develop the way you want to play.

“Of course I was worried, Manchester United, Eric Bailly got injured and I am sorry for that but he was alone.

“And always when the players start to build their fitness and start to fight for their place in the team, when something happens in the pre-season it’s always tough and I was a little bit worried, but in the second half the game was a bit more relaxed.”

Man Utd boss Ole Gunnar Solskjaer praised James’ honesty and bravery following the victory on Thursday.

James has been a regular starter for the Red Devils in pre-season after completing his move from Swansea earlier this summer. 

The Wales international could make his competitive debut for his new club on August 11 when Solskjaer’s side take on Chelsea on their first Premier League fixture of the season. 

The Scotland international is nearing his 50th appearance for the Red Devils and has his sights set on nailing down a regular starting berth

Manchester United midfielder Scott McTominay backs himself to nail down a spot in Ole Gunnar Solskjaer’s squad this season, despite rumours of the club looking to sign another midfielder.

The Scotland international has been used as a rotation player by the Red Devils over the last two seasons and has racked up 47 appearances for the club across all competitions, scoring two goals.

He netted his first ever goal in United colours during a 2-1 defeat to Wolves in April 2019, with his second coming in the penultimate game of the season against Huddersfield.

And despite the club’s rumoured interest in Newcastle midfielder Sean Longstaff, the 22-year-old believes he has what it takes to become a regular starter.

“Regardless of what other signings come in or who plays where, you have to back yourself to be a Man United player,” he said.

“That’s one thing that I’ve done over the last two years, I’ve always backed myself.

“I’ve tried to train hard and I’ve always wanted to do extra things to try and give me that one per cent difference.”

“It’s my ambition to be a regular No. 6, No. 8, a box-to-box player — that’s my main ambition.

“That’s always been my goal. It’s important that I really go for that now.

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“Obviously there is an opportunity there and you’ve got to take it with both hands.

“Last year I had some decent performances and it’s important that I carry on from that.”

The Red Devils endured a largely disappointing campaign last season, finishing sixth in the Premier League and failing to pick up any silverware as they were dumped out of the Carabao Cup, FA Cup and Champions League.

Their placement means there will be no Champions League football at Old Trafford this season, but McTominay says that everyone at the club is desperate to return to their glory days.

“That’s the desire from kitchen ladies at Carrington, to the kit men, to the physios to the players and all of the staff and the manager,” he added.

“That’s the sole aim of the football club, to get it back to where we want to be.

“That’s the top of the league and it’s important we get there.”

A select few stations show matches from the English top tier in the United Kingdom – we bring you everything you need to know

With teams such as Manchester United, Liverpool, Manchester City and Arsenal involved, the Premier League is one of the most popular and exciting divisions to watch in football.

Some of the best players on the planet are on display each week, including Mohamed Salah, Kevin De Bruyne and Paul Pogba, so viewers are spoiled for choice when it comes to deciding which games to tune in to on television.

Indeed, top class talent is littered across teams in the division and it’s not just the traditional top six who serve up entertaining games.

Goal brings you everything you need to know about which TV channels are showing Premier League games in the United Kingdom and where you can stream matches live online.

Premier League 2019-20 football on UK TV

In the UK, Sky Sports and BT Sport are the main television broadcasters for Premier League matches.

UK TV channel Number of Premier League games
BT Sport 52
Sky Sports 128

Sky Sports show the most games, with rights to 128 fixtures, while BT Sport show less than half that number, broadcasting 52 league encounters.

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For those watching matches on Sky, games are broadcast on their various channels, including Sky Sports Premier League, Sky Sports Main Event and Sky One.

On BT Sport, Premier League matches are chiefly shown on BT Sport 1, but channel changes can occur.

Premier League 2019-20 football live online streams

In the UK, Premier League matches can be streamed online via three channels: Sky Go, the BT Sport Player and, from 2019-20 on, Amazon Prime Video.

UK online stream Number of Premier League games
BT Sport Player 52
Sky Go 128
Amazon Prime Video 20

Sky Go and the BT Sport Player are the online facilities available to those who subscribe to BT Sport or Sky Sports.

In order to avail of Amazon Prime Video’s Premier League coverage, one must subscribe at a cost of £7.99 a month or £79 a year. A 30-day free trial is available.

Amazon’s coverage is limited to 20 games, which, in 2019-20, will be those that take place in December 2019.

Click here to find out more about Amazon Prime Video’s Premier League coverage.

Watch Premier League 2019-20 football highlights

The most popular Premier League highlights show in the UK is the BBC’s Match of the Day programme, which usually airs every Saturday evening after that day’s games.

Hosted by Gary Lineker and featuring insight from a host of ex professionals, Match of the Day is an institution of British sporting life, having first aired back in 1964.

It can be watched on TV via BBC One or online using the BBC iPlayer.

Highlights and analysis shows are also broadcast on Sky Sports and BT Sport, while Amazon Prime Video will offer subscribers the chance to watch highlights each week.

How affordable acetate disrupted the eyewear market

September 7, 2019 | News | No Comments

Not all eyewear is created equal. Much like everything else in fashion,
there is an entire spectrum of low to high, basic to couture, affordable to
luxury, factory-made to crafted by hand. Acetate remains the most popular
frame for glasses, spanning the affordable market for as little as 25 euros
for a no frills pair from Dutch e-commerce startup Charlie Temple, to
luxury options, such as a tortoise shell acetate and gold inlaid pair from
luxury brand Cartier, priced at around 900 pounds.

Five years ago the eyewear market was turned upside down with a new breed
of start-ups challenging the big luxury players with low-cost, high-quality
alternatives, migrating the prescription and optical market to online, and
re-writing the sales book on value and service. It spelled the end of an
era of stuffy opticians, overpriced prescription glasses, and boring
retail.

Where once low-cost eyewear carried the stigma of being and appearing
equally cheap, a surge of new brands introduced novel ways of retailing
affordable glasses with a high desirability factor. In the US companies
like Warby Parker and Privé Revaux Eyewear debuted designer spectacles
starting from as little as 29 dollars for a pair of frames. In Europe,
companies like acetate revolutionised the contemporary eyewear market
as purveyors of fashionable glasses for 98 pounds. Their visually appealing
campaigns are cleverly aimed at millenials, embracing codes of
individuality and inclusivity, striking a chord with a generation known for
its thriftiness. The era of owning an eyewear wardrobe was launched.

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Price focus

, a French startup founded in 2011, goes as far to offer
spectacles and prescriptions for an uber low price of 14,98 euros. The
company has adopted an aggressive marketing campaign, using slogans such as
“Stop getting f*cked by the optical industry” and calling buyers of luxury
glasses “stupid” for paying higher prices.

Do you get what you pay for?

Whilst acetate frames may be generally inexpensive to produce, not all
cellulose acetate is created equal, either. The higher the quality, the
better the gloss and transparency. But pricing tiers are not solely based
on materials used and it is difficult to quantify the price of exceptional
design.

Whereas companies like Polette are keen to advertise the affordability
aspect of their products, the design factor and level of detail in their
collections cannot necessarily be compared to high-end players whose
products are founded on craft and innovation. There is a discernible
difference at product level between a pair of glasses cheap to produce,
minimally designed with affordable materials, and those at the higher end
of the spectrum, where detail, innovation and pricier materials come into
play. Comparing an inexpensive cotton t-shirt by H&M to a t-shirt made by
Louis Vuitton should have obvious qualitative differences. We’re all agreed
that not all cotton t-shirts are equal.

Yes, the eyewear market has been disrupted with new direct to consumer
brands, many of whom are rightly calling for more transparent pricing and
eradicating over-priced prescription models. Yet calling potential
customers ’stupid’ for choosing to buy a luxury brand is both offensive and
unwarranted. In the quest for exclusivity, not all shoppers are in the
market for low-cost.

Photo by FashionUnited

Spartak have the option to sign the former Bayer Leverkusen, Chelsea and Wolfsburg player permanently next year

Germany forward Andre Schurrle has joined Spartak Moscow on a season-long loan deal, his parent club Borussia Dortmund have announced.

Bundesliga giants Dortmund confirmed the agreement on Wednesday, meaning the 28-year-old will spend his second successive season away from the club.

Schurrle made 24 Premier League appearances for Fulham last season, scoring six goals.

Spartak have the option to sign the former Bayer Leverkusen, Chelsea and Wolfsburg player permanently next year, with the fee reportedly set at €6million .

Schurrle broke through at Mainz before his form with Leverkusen alerted the attention of Chelsea.

Jose Mourinho made Schurrle the first signing of his second stint at the club for a reported fee of £18m in 2013.

The attacker made 44 Premier League appearances for Chelsea before returning to Germany with Wolfsburg in 2015, though things have not really worked out since a subsequent move to Dortmund a year later.

He has played in 33 Bundesliga matches for Dortmund, scoring three goals.

Schurrle’s arrival will boost a Spartak side sitting 10th in the Russian Premier League after three matches.

The Muskovites will be hopeful he can make a greater contribution than the one he made last season at Cravan Cottage, where the German was unable to prevent the Cottagers sliding out of the Premier League after a dismal campaign.

Schurrle scored twice in the World Cup semi-final of 2014 as Germany crushed the hosts Brazil 7-1, notching his team’s last two goals as they landed one of the great World Cup shocks.

 

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The Leicester man will become the world’s most expensive defender once his £80m transfer is completed with the United boss confident it is nearly done

Harry Maguire’s move to Manchester United is likely to be completed “very soon” according to manager Ole Gunnar Solskjaer.

The 26-year-old is set to become the world’s most expensive defender as he moves from Leicester, with an £80 million ($97m) fee agreed between the clubs.

He is thought to have been offered a six-year deal at Old Trafford, as Solskjaer looks to fix United’s long-term defensive shortcomings.

“Hopefully the last little details will be in place,” Solskjaer said in a press conference. “So hopefully we can announce something very soon.”

United are set for an intriguing start to their Premier League season, as they host Chelsea on August 11.

Victor Lindelof and Marcos Rojo started in the centre of defence in the pre-season penalty shoot-out win over AC Milan on Saturday, and fans will be hoping Maguire goes straight into the starting XI against the Blues.

“Let’s get the last details over the line,” Solskjaer added. “But yeah, he’s played a few games over the summer so we’ll have to assess him if and when.”

He is set to be an integral part of a new-look United back line, with Aaron Wan-Bissaka starting on the right and Luke Shaw and Lindelof likely to be the other preferred starters.

Swedish international Lindelof scored an own goal in Saturday’s game, but Marcus Rashford and Jesse Lingard found the net at the right end to earn a 2-2 draw.

New signing Daniel James bagged the winning spot-kick, and will be hoping he has done enough in pre-season to make the team against Chelsea. His winner ensured that United finished their pre-season campaign undefeated.

Paul Pogba wasn’t present for the game against Milan as he had a slight knock but Solskjaer added that he fully believes the midfielder wants to be at United, amid heavy interest from Real Madrid.

The transfer window will have closed before United get their season underway, and Solskjaer will doubtless be happy to focus entirely on matters on the pitch.

Fixtures with Wolves, Crystal Palace, Southampton and Leicester follow the Chelsea game, before their Europa League campaign gets underway in mid-September.

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Sustainability in the fashion industry is having a moment. Headlines are
calling for transparency, a growing demand for circular and ethical fashion
is gaining traction and there is momentum, even if they are baby steps,
towards a cleaner industry and greener planet.

Sustainability as a subject matter is at last getting the attention it
deserves. But if a collective conversation is happening from within the
industry itself, the brutal reality of factory workers is a far cry from
the words spoken by brands’ sustainability officers, who’s companies
continue to produce garments in factories where human and worker’s rights
are but a tacit agreement rarely enforced.

A report released this month on workers rights in Bangladesh revealed the
government and apparel factory owners are retaliating against workers who
are campaigning for a higher minimum wage, which was raised to 95 dollars a
month in December 2018, from an hourly wage of approximately 0.45 cents and
22 dollars per week.

Factory workers who make clothes for H&M and Mango subjected to
criminal charges

Since campaigning for higher wages last year, many workers have been
arrested and subjected to baseless criminal charges, “brought at the behest
of factories that supply brands like H&M, Mango, and Next. Factories
producing for these and other brands have fired as many as 11,600 workers
without legal justification, most of whom are unable to find other jobs due
to systematic blacklisting. Some factories have even hired thugs to
physically assault employees.”

The report, which was published by the Workers Rights Consortium (WRC),
eerily notes freedom of expression and association have become increasingly
stifled by Bangladesh’s Government in recent years. The Government, led by
the Awami League, has most notably used the Information and Communication
Technology (ICT) Act to arrest scores of civil society actors for
criticising governmental and political leaders, among others, in online
newspapers, on Facebook, and on other social media sites.

The response by government security forces was characterised by
indiscriminate use of physical force, in contravention of workers’ rights
of speech, assembly, and association as well as arrests of, and criminal
charges against, 65 workers were driven by demonstrably baseless complaints
from managers of 30 factories, producing for a long list of well-known
brands and retailers. The report iterates some workers were charged based
on alleged acts that took place miles away from their actual workplaces and
in which the workers cannot possibly have taken part.

Despite a focus on factory safety in Bangladesh following the Rana Plaza
disaster, workers rights have a long way to go. Factory owners were never
held meaningfully accountable for their role in the unlawful repression of
peaceful protest and assembly. Western brands and retailers continued to
pour business into Bangladesh; exports to the US, for example, have grown
19 percent in the last year.

How can brands remedy the harm done to workers?

The WRC asks all brands sourcing from Bangladesh to require all of their
suppliers to withdraw any criminal complaints they have filed in relation
to the recent protests (as well as any remaining criminal complaints
against workers; reinstate and provide back wages to all workers terminated
or forced to resign in the wake of the protests; and commit to a
nondiscriminatory hiring process, designed to end the blacklisting of
workers based in their involvement in the protests.

Based in Washington, USA, the WRC conducts independent, in-depth
investigations, issues public reports on factories producing for major
brands; and aids workers at these factories in their efforts to end labor
abuses and defend their workplace rights.

Photos: Courtesy of the Clean Clothes Campaign

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Farfetch is becoming one of the fastest growing eCommerce platforms in the
fashion industry. It’s endless selection of luxury items leaves customers
scrolling for hours, and has completely transformed the way people shop for
luxury. As the company works to form more of its own unique brand identity,
this past March they launched Farfetch Communities, which gives shoppers
content from notable figures in entertainment and fashion.

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Now, the luxury eCommerce site is collaborating with fashion houses to
produce more exclusive content, and the first up in their partnership is
one of Italy’s hottest luxury brands, Gucci. Today, “Gucci Open House” has
gone live on Farfetch Communities. The eight-month-long series takes users
into the homes and lives of different Gucci fanatics. The content was
produced in collaboration with Gucci’s digital marketing team.

According to Business of Fashion, communities was designed to address a
major problem Farfetch has: a wide assortment of product at competitive
prices, but lacking a brand identity of their own. Despite their individual
brand identity, Farfetch’s revenue has soared over the past several years,
but to keep up that growth they are following the classic “spend money to
make money” model, and investing heavily into marketing.

For Q1 2019, Farfetch had 1.7 active customers, an increase of 64 percent
compared to last year. However, their losses widened and their stock has
declined 16 percent. However, the company is hoping that these marketing
initiatives will help solidify relationships with customers and lure in new
ones.

“This is about expressing the Farfetch brand and ethos in a unique way,”
Neves said to Business of Fashion. “We have a community of the best
curators of fashion. We have boutiques, designers and brands, and we also
have fashion consumers from all over the world. Now, we are leveraging the
power of our community.”

According to Neves, Farfetch has a series of brands and boutiques ready to
partner with them after their current collaboration with Gucci ends. The
goal is to eventually curate enough segments so specific customer
demographics will have content unique to them, such as the sneakerheads.

photo: farfetch.com

The curtain came down on Paris men’s fashion
Sunday with two high-concept shows that had walk-on roles for Solange and
K-pop sensation Lisa.

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Kenzo’s design duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon said goodbye to the French
label with Solange as the surprise performer in the same Paris stadium which
Elton John had packed to the rafters a few nights previously.

The Californians’ ended their eight-year reign with a bang as the American
star appeared on a platform to sing “I’m a Witness” in between the men’s and
womenswear lines.

The brilliantly choreographed event had started with a similar wow moment
when a huge curtain was pulled away in front of 600 or so fashionistas to
reveal several thousand more people on the other side.

Having conducted her 11-piece black-clad brass band, Beyonce’s younger
sister then walked arm-in-arm with the designers to acknowledge the ovation at
the end, with the feminist English rapper M.I.A in the front row.

Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing got the weekend rocking late on Friday night by
making the hot French DJ Kiddy Smile the centre of his show-cum-concert.

Mermaid inspired fashion

The young French creator — who often dresses big music stars for their
tours — also threw open the doors by giving away 2,000 tickets.

“Everyone is talking about inclusivity from behind their screens but no one
is actually doing something,” he told reporters.

Inclusion has been one of Lim and Leon’s watchwords, and their final Kenzo
collection was inspired by Japanese Ama divers, the “sea women” who have been
diving for pearls for 2,000 years.

Traditionally, the divers only wore a loincloth and the pair picked up that
motif with rippling, silkily aquatic clothes that weren’t obviously sexy but
were utterly sensual at the same time.

Men’s and women’s lines were peppered with gorgeously original fishing and
mermaid metaphors, with a fluidity and a dreaminess about the clothes,
particularly in the play with pearls, urchins and little touches of foaming
silk and organza.

While Lim and Leon went out on a high, you could be forgiven for feeling
that Hedi Slimane, Mr Rock Chic himself, was treading water somewhat.

The style superstar who is credited with the skinny look has taken a
terrible kicking from critics since unseating the beloved feminist creator
Phoebe Philo at Celine.

Slimane once again only using the skinniest models

He closed fashion week with another no-expense-spared show that began with
an awesome theatrical device.

As for the clothes, the big news is that the “Sultan of Slim” has
jettisoned his trademark drainpipes, the trousers the late Karl Lagerfeld once
lost nearly 42 kilos (92 pounds) to fit into, for flares worn long over heeled
boots.

Skinny though lives on in the rake-thin male models, every one wearing
black aviator shades.

In fact, Slimane’s “Celine 04” collection was very much like a male version
of “Celine 03” — a walk down memory lane.

This time it was a sometimes literalist re-creation of what American West
Coast rock star types were wearing circa 1973, with a sharp couture sheen and
added sparkles.

Tight leather jackets and flares, unbuttoned shirts and three-piece double
breasted suits with white cowboy boots, red carnation button holes and long
thin scarves.

Thai rapper Lisa considered Slimane’s ‘muse’

Some tops carried downbeat slogans from New York artist David Kramer’s
paintings such as “Yesterday was better”, “My own worst enemy” and “Downhill
from here”.

You could not help but wonder if Slimane — whose army of loyal
free-spending fans are known as “Slimaniacs” — was teasing his critics, with
one of Kramer’s images carrying the caption, “…There is no irony here.”

Fans did scream at the end but it was more for Lisa, the Thai-born rapper
of Blackpink fame who is Slimane’s new “official muse” and who was in the
front row.

There was much joy to be had elsewhere with the reinvigorated British brand
Dunhill and Paul Smith, the doyen of English tailoring, showing there is
plenty of creative life left in variations on the suit.

But the big breath of fresh air was the young French designer Bruno
Sialelli confirming the promise of his debut collection for Lanvin with a show
held at a swimming pool.

Quirky, cool, cute and a lot of fun to look at — and clearly to wear —
Sialelli turned out a collection that played with every cliche of the French
summer and seaside and somehow made them look new.

It was hard not to smile at his tricorne straw hats.

Not for him the pasty, androgynous models that often dominate the Paris
catwalk.

“I wanted the boys to eat well and to look healthy and strong,” he told AFP.

“Now I need a holiday, he added. “I mean, I love my work but holidays are
the best things in life, no?”(AFP)

Photos: Celine SS20, Catwalkpictures