Cruise fashion was once an American phenomenon, an obscure fashion season known as cruise and resort. Initially, these clothes were meant for northern well to do women who spent a considerable amount of time holidaying in warm-weather spots, to escape the wraths of winter.

That was before airlines made quick trips to the Caribbean and long weekends in southern climes accessible to less-wealthy women. And it was before the demand from countries in the Middle East where winters are non-existent and fashionable warm-weather clothes are needed year-round.

What hasn’t changed is the need for fresh clothes in the stores starting in October and November. After all, autumn styles are shipped as early as June and tend to look tired and familiar when they are still hanging on the racks a few months later.

It was this commercial consideration that impelled the Europeans to offer cruise collections before they actually understood the thinking behind the season that falls between fall and spring. Two seasons a year are the rule for European fashion houses; four or more are handled by American ones.

These days a cruise fashion week is held in New York in June. As Claudia Croft, fashion editor at Style recently wrote, the shows aren’t accompanied by the fanfare of the ready-to-wear shows, but in terms of business, the clothes and accessories shown are the ones that will sell and sell.

Alongside major brands which show cruise, such as Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani and Dior, smaller brands such as Tibi and Giles Deacon also produce capsule ranges. The great thing about Cruise collections is that they are more affordable than the mainlines and much more wearable. Whilst the Christmas and holiday season may warrant for jaw-dropping glamour, Cruise collections are about about simpler pieces, such as a great jacket or little black dress. Come February, the mainline versions will hit stores, when the wraths of winter are inescapable and that new Lanvin coat will cheer you up no end.

Image: Dior Cruise

The profit of footwear apparel adidas increased over the first quarter of 2008 with 32% to €196 million, which is higher then expected. During the first quarter of 2008, adidas’ sales increased with 10%, however the revenues in the Reebok segment declined due to the negative currency impact. On a whole the Group’s revenues grew 3% in euro to € 2.621 billion in the first quarter of 2008 from € 2.538 billion in 2007.

The adidas and Taylor Made-adidas Golf segments set the pace for the Group’s sales growth in the first quarter of 2008. Currency-neutral adidas segment revenues increased 14% during the first three months, driven by strong performance product sales in nearly all major categories. Currency-neutral sales in the Reebok segment declined 6% in the first quarter of 2008, mainly as a result of Reebok’s repositioning efforts in the USA and the UK. At Taylor Made-adidas Golf its revenues increased with 17%, due to the strong product offering in all major categories, supported by several new product launches.

The gross margin of the adidas Group increased by 2.3 percentage points to a new record level of 49.1% of sales in the first quarter of 2008 (2007: 46.8%), driven by improvements in all brand segments. This is related to an improving product and regional mix, increased own-retail activities as well as favourable currency movements.

For 2008, adidas is expecting to increase its sales at all brands. The target in the Reebok segment was raised in March due to the announced joint venture of Reebok and Vulcabras S.A. in Brazil and Paraguay. Since April 1, 2008, the joint venture distributes Reebok footwear, apparel and accessories in these countries.

adidas AG CEO and Chairman Herbert Hainer commented: “In 2008, we will reach new heights on both the top and bottom line. A summer of excitement is ahead of us. Our brands will be front and centre at the two major sporting events, the UEFA EURO 2008™ and the Olympic Games. Despite a challenging market environment, we are optimistic we will achieve all our targets.”

Image: adidas

Debenhams is expected to axe its fledgling German chain after its fashions failed to strike a chord with the locals. Last week it emerged that the department store group was looking for a European partner and had made contact with peers including Germany’s Karstadt Quelle and Galeries Lafayette in France. However, Debenhams entered the German market in its own right earlier this year, opening trial franchise stores in a handful of locations including Berlin.

Their ranges have been poorly received, sources say, and the stores are likely to shut at the end of August.

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Avery Dennison, provider of pressure-sensitive labelling materials, retail tag, ticketing systems and office products has launched a new website. The site, managed by its Information and Brand Management Division, is offering apparel manufacturers, retailers and brand owners an array of products and technical resources.

The new website www.ibmd.averydennison.com strives to give a complete offering of solutions needed to display, track, trace, and protect brands, products and information. The site reflects the company’s combined and strengthened offering following its 2007 acquisition of Paxar Corp.

According to Kim Macaulay, vice president, product management and strategic business development, the website will evolve as both a solutions resource and an interactive site for sharing industry intelligence and ideas.

“Future Web site additions will include two-way interaction where visitors can provide input and Avery Dennison can discuss critical topics such as compliance with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008, as well as serve as a training resource for our customers and a place to see the latest innovations and fashion trends in custom labelling.”

The website launched in English with more languages to follow during the remainder of 2008 and into 2009.

Number eight is Elizabeth Arden’s magic number and the beauty brand announced as a tribute to the heritage of their iconic Eight Hour Cream, the introduction of its third addition to the ‘Celebration of the Decades Collection’.

The vintage edition takes inspiration from the 1950’s, capturing the decade’s retro designs and love of beauty icons – combining Breakfast at Tiffany’s with American diner chic.

Created in 1936 by Elizabeth Arden, the Eight Hour Cream became an instant success. With its multi-tasking and skin restorative abilities, this cream remains unchanged in formula since launch. The multi-task cream works on everything from cracked lips to dry elbows, eyebrows, insect bites, or as a gloss for lips, lashes and cheeks. The Eight Hour Vintage Limited Edition will be available nationwide from 10th November.

Founded in 2007, cult lingerie label Fred&Ginger will be on show at boutique hotel 40WiNKS. The exclusive event is designed for the fashion industry. Fred&Ginger will offer a trunk show of the current SS09 collection plus a preview of the new AW09. The collection will be on display in the Green Room on the ground floor of the micro hotel.

Guests will be able to meet Fred&Ginger’s founder and creative director, Victoria Holt. She’ll talk about her inspirations and gives style advice. Classic silhouettes, lingerie and negligees will be available to purchase. Victoria Holt, is the former senior fashion designer for Jenny Packham. The label is available in UK and abroad with stockists including Selfridges, Fenwick and Apartment C.

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With all the design competitions on offer it’s certainly an interesting time for emerging fashion talent. The Clothes Show Live announced it is once more supporting emerging designers of the UK with the Clothes Show Live Design Awards. The event offers a platform for aspiring designers to take their changes and showcase their creations to fashion lovers and industry experts. Clothes Show Live wants to help young creatives aged between 13 and 25 to gain recognition within the fashion industry and offer them their first big break.

“At a challenging time in the world of retail and fashion these awards are even more important than ever before. Where other fashion organisations are cutting back, we’re continuing to support and nurture young talent to help them make that all important first step into the world of fashion”, says Gavin Brown, Managing Director, Clothes Show Live. “By hosting the Design Awards we can nurture new talent from across the country and give them the recognition they deserve.”

The Awards feature six different categories including Young Artist of the Year, Prom Award, Handbag Designer Award, Journalist of the Year Award in association with Cosmopolitan, Fashion Photographer Award, Designer of the Year Award in association with Internaçionale. Students are invited to enter their work from now until November 2009. The entries will be short listed by a judging panel made up of industry experts, they will then be short listed in November and invited to attend the award ceremony at Clothes Show Live in December 2009.

The winners will be announced at Clothes Show Live, 4-9 December 200 at Birmingham NEC. The finalist’s work will be showcased at Clothes Show Live and will be open for public viewing.

Image: Clothes Show Live

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Marks and Spencer has reported sales growth ahead of expectations in the three months to 27 March. UK like-for-like sales increased by 5.1%. Analysts had forecast a 1.7% rise. In its trading statement, Marks and Spencer said it had seen improvements across the board in the UK, with sales of general merchandise – which includes clothes – increasing 9.1% and food sales up 1.8%.

The retailer said sales of formalwear and knitwear were particularly strong. Sales at its online shopping division M&S Direct were up 48%.

Its results were also boosted by the inclusion of the first day of the Christmas sale, which was not included in the corresponding quarter last year. However, the retail giant said international sales fell 5.9% as a result of difficult trading conditions in the Irish Republic and Greece, while foreign exchange rates also had an adverse impact.

“These are strong quarterly results by any measure,” Sir Stuart said. “We have weathered the immediate impact of the recession but remain cautious about the outlook for 2010-11 given the current challenging environment. “We hope that after the election there will be greater clarity on economic policy and how this will impact our customers individually.”

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The company said it expected to make a pre-tax profit in the range of £620m to £630m for the year to 27 March.

The trading statement is the last to be presided over by Sir Stuart Rose. He will be replaced as chief executive by former Morrisons boss Marc Bolland in May, but will stay on in a part-time role as chairman.

Shares in M&S were down 1.4% to 373 pence in midday trading.

Keith Bowman, equity analyst at Hargreaves Lansdown Stockbrokers, said: “Despite headline reassurance, real belief in the group’s long-term growth prospects has yet to be mustered – a task which now looks to fall to the new chief executive, Marc Bolland, in order to deliver.”

Image: M&S chairman & models

George Davies, the founder of Next, has invest £20m of his own money into a new fashion chain called Give, reported The Times. Give aims to offer affordable luxury on the high street offer in-store style advisers and tailors to help customers create individual looks. Davies, who also founded George at Asda and Per Una for Marks & Spencer, hopes to give 5%-10% of profits to charity.

Give will open in 25 locations during the autumn, with flagship stores in London’s Regent Street and regional shopping centres. A tie-up with Beales, the department store, will give it access to town-centre locations. Regent Street is to open first, on September 30.

Davies hopes to expand overseas and has had talks with one of Saudi Arabia’s shopping-centre owners. He said he would be disappointed if Give did not see sales of £50m-£60m.

It is less than a year since Davies left Marks & Spencer, where he was chairman of Per Una. He had a tense relationship with Sir Stuart Rose, but this weekend dismissed concern over Rose’s combined role of chairman and chief executive at M&S. “I don’t really see the problem — he’s obviously capable,” Davies said. A more pressing issue was the nonexecutives, he added.

Source: The Times
Image: GIVe logo

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The Catalan fashion chain, Mango, which tops the European market for the most stores open, continues its international expansion plan despite the crisis and aims to open establishments all over the world. FashionUnited talks to Mr. Enric Casi, Mango’s General Manager and Partner.

FU: Which new markets has Mango entered during 2009?
Mango has over 1300 shops in 95 countries. In 2009, it entered the Dutch Antilles, Byelorussia, Guatemala, Iraq, Iran, Martinique and New Caledonia for the first time.

FU: Which markets does Mango expect to enter in the near future?
We want to enter all markets whenever we find places that interest us. In Europe, each country has the capacity for 400 stores and there still a lot to be opened. In Spain, we already have 300 sales points. In France, for example, we only have 100 stores. In the meantime, we are focusing on Europe, China and Japan because they are very demanding sophisticated and affordable fashion markets. We have new sales points in Belgrade, Dubai, Kuwait, Johannesburg, Manila, Moscow, New Delhi, New York, Paris, Peking, Tehran and Tokyo.

FU: If the economy stays flat over the next few years, is the firm still going to keep opening stores every year?
Our idea is to open 200 stores a year regardless of the crisis.

FU: Which is the best market now in terms of sales? And benefits?
Spain has the most stores, which is reflected by its sales. With regard to benefits, turnover is greater in Spain. Turkey is a very interesting country for us in terms of sales and benefits.

FU: How could you compare your international strategy with that of Inditex?
Mango has stores in more countries than Zara. Zara has more product lines than Mango. It has clothes for women, men, children and the home. We have been working almost exclusively with women and men’s clothing for one year now but we want to enter countries that prefer quality and sophisticated products.

FU: Where are your products made?
China represents 50 per cent of our production, Morocco 20 per cent and the rest is made in Turkey and Eastern countries like Romania and Bulgaria. Each country is specialised in one production phase.

FU: Have you had to adopt any important measures due to the world crisis such as renegotiating lease agreements, altering working hours, lay-offs or adjusting salaries?
Business has dropped with the crisis. But everything is pretty much the same. The only difference is that we have renegotiated some lease agreements and we have closed some shops due to the expiry of the franchise contract.

FU: Does Mango use Facebook as a real communication tool and do you think it more efficient in terms of communication than your own website?
Mango is still investing in interactive formats to introduce fashion to net surfers. In this case, we have launched a new application on the famous social network, Facebook, where users can interact and create their own Mango wardrobe.

FU: For the first time ever, ‘He by Mango’ has exhibited at the latest ‘Who’s Next’ in Paris. Have you thought about participating in other fashion fairs next year?
We hope to participate in HKTDC World Boutique Hong Kong and Franchise Expo Paris in 2010.

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