CPH Vision showcases the best contemporary womenswear brands and focuses on Scandinavian design, feminine fashion and up-and-coming designers. With a more focused profile and stronger identity CPH Vision will now only be exhibiting womenswear designers as well as presenting a more high-profile and design-driven portfolio. We are happy to give you a sneak preview of some of the amazing new brands exhibiting at CPH Vision for the first time. At the same time, we are thrilled to welcome some of our old friends back.

Cacharel
The high-end French fashion house Cacharel, which was founded in 1962, is an internationally renowned company, well-known for its iconic products. Cacharel is exhibiting at CPH Vision for the first time and blends in perfectly with the feminine and romantic approach so characteristic of the fair. Among iconic must-haves that originally profiled the brand are the Liberty, the crepon and the simple shirt for women – so keep an eye on the upcoming collection to see the reinvented and newly interpreted pieces.

Pennyblack
Also on board at CPH Vision for the first time is Max Mara’s younger sister, PennyBlack. Founded in 1978, PennyBlack has a strong international appeal and is constantly growing in Europe, Central Asia, the Fair East and South America. Aimed at the outgoing, self-confident woman, who seeks a sophisticated, but easy-to-wear high-quality style, PennyBlack offers an up-to-date style in line with current trends. To enhance the brand, PennyBlack is divided into the Black, Grey and Pink labels which aim to dress a woman stylishly every hour of her day.

Twist & Tango
Back at CPH Vision is the Swedish brand Twist & Tango which aims for simple, yet stylish ‘everyday clothes’ based on the key concepts of fun, personal style and femininity. Taking the ‘wardrobe perspective’ as its starting point in each collection, every piece is ultimately wearable on its own. Ever since its launch in 1995, all the Twist & Tango products have been manufactured in a way that is environmentally and socially sustainable. The company works very closely with all its suppliers to make sure that standards meet their stringent requirements.

Maria Westerlind
The Westerlind brand was founded in Sweden in 1984 by Maria Westerlind’s grandparents and was taken on by Maria who established Maria Westerlind in 2003. With her heritage and roots as inspiration, Maria focuses on high-quality design with European fabrics and production in Italy and core markets such as Scandinavia, Benelux and Germany. With an emphasis on vibrant colours and interesting patterns, her signature pieces are dresses, skirts, coats and knits.

Benedikte Utzon
At CPH Vision, one of the oldies, but goodies is Benedikte Utzon. As a member of the Utzon family of furriers, designers and architects, Benedikte was born and brought up with creativity all around her. In 1995 Benedikte felt ready to introduce her own label with a feminine contemporary mixture of classic and raw designs for the fashion-conscious woman. Benedikte Utzon is stocked by all major Danish fashion boutiques and department stores.

More news will follow next week! For press enquiries & images please contact Fernanda Palmeiro [email protected]

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Boxing gloves, high tech parkas, sports bras and goggles. These are just
some of the items that will go on sale next week at H&M across the UK for
its latest designer collaboration with Alexander Wang.

FashionUnited will cover the launchlive from London

FashionUnited will be in-store on its opening day, following the first drop of the
collection on the shop floor and talking to customers and store personnel.

Earlier this month the collection was unveiled in New York to rave reviews,
mixing Wang’s sport luxe aesthetic with graphic detailing and technical
fabrics that will work for the H&M customer.

Neoprene sweaters, quick-dry t-shirts, bold slogans and lots of mesh, the
collection is designed to take you from gym to town or perhaps the other
way around.

Elsewhere customers can expect logo tunic dresses, leather heeled boots as
well as a sports accessories, including a yoga mat, boxing gloves and
drinking bottle,

This is the Swedish fashion giant’s tenth designer collaboration.
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You could forgive fashion king Giorgio Armani the absence of capes at his
Emporio show Friday, after pop diva Madonna blamed one of his creations for
her fall at the Brit Awards this week.

The white-haired grandfather of fashion looked unrepentant as he took his bow
for a lively autumn/winter 2015 collection based on a palette of soft blues,
vibrant pinks, reds and purples, rounded off with a host of bewitching black
looks.

Those cursed with unshapely ankles are in trouble: this winter it’s all about
slim-cut trousers which stop short, leaving a glimpse of bare skin —
no cheating
with tights mind! — before the masculine, patent leather shoe below.

Red or black butterfly bows adorned shoulders on high-waisted jackets and the
front of full-waisted coats, or were transformed into earrings. Bags were
tiny, closed with a metal clasp and worn on long chains under furry gilets
or with long frill straps, with classic clutches for the evening.

Among the trends emerging at Milan fashion week is the bedroom look, with Gucci
producing furry slippers and Fendi showing off a duvet dress — and Armani
did not disappoint, unveiling a pink coat with dressing-gown overtones.

The fat effect is also going large, though Armani took a softer
approach, offering
just two short-sleeved blue and red dresses in fur and wool, which hung out
from the frame down to the knee.

Shoes were shiny in electric reds, purples and blues, with only a pair
of sensible
wide-heeled high heels for special events — which should rule out any
further stumbles by celebrities dressed by the 80-year old fashion lord.

Madonna blamed her Armani cape for her tumble off the stage at the Brit Awards
on Wednesday, after she was unable to untie it during an act. “Armani
hooked me up! My beautiful cape was tied too tight!” she said on Instagram.

The Emporio collection may have been free of dangerous garments, but with the
Giorgio Armani show still to come on Monday, there is time for perilous capers
yet. (AFP)

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“And the award for design goes to Jonathan Christopher,” said Adriano
Goldschmied, ‘the Godfather of denim,’ to a screaming crowd of denim
enthusiasts at Amsterdam’s brand new denim innovation campus, Denim
City during the first annual Global Denim Awards.

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“The Global Denim Awards 2014 is a new event, a pilot which pairs six
emerging designers, with no denim experience, with six of the world’s
premiere denim mills. It’s aim is to connect talents within the
industry to create a directional path for the future of denim design,
innovation, sustainability and craftsmanship,” explained Mariette
Hoitink, founder of fashion recruitment and consultancy agency HTNK,
who together with denim trade fair Kingpins, e3, and House of Denim,
HTNK created the debut award ceremony.

Dutch Designer Jonathan Christopher wins first Global Denim Awards

The selected nominees included Italian designer Stefano Ughetti,
Turkish designer Gizem Turn, London-designer Bhavesh Samji,
Amsterdam-based designer Fernanda Fernandes and Dutch designers
Jonathan Christopher and Anneloes van Osselaer. “The designers visited
the mills in Italy, Turkey, Spain and China and co-created with the
mill a capsule collection of five total denim looks. I can assure you
that they drove each other crazy at times. But they also fell in love
with denim and it must be in your DNA and that is what we looked for,”
added Hoitink, who helped pair the designers with the denim mills.

Each designer participating in the award ceremony had been tasked with
the challenge of creating five complete denim looks. Barbara Gnutti,
exports manager for Italian vertical denim mill ITV Denim, was paired
with Jonathan Christopher, which turned out to be a match made in
heaven.
“I am so happy we were given this opportunity. Jonathan is an amazing
guy, I have become best friends with him over these past few weeks,
even my colleagues make fun of how close we have become.”

“We have been working together for the past three weeks creating his
collection, but the time just flew by. He was a pleasure to work
with. He really knew what he wanted, he just walked around our factory
in Italy selecting the types of denim he wanted. Luckily his requests
were easy to to do, as we are Italians. We always say yes to any
request, and then see if it is possible to do. I am very excited about
his work, and share his feeling of excitement.”

ITV Denim: Jonathan “was a pleasure to work with”

Hailing from Rotterdam, the Netherlands, Christopher graduated from
the Willem de Kooning Academy in 2009. He went on to earn his master’s
of fashion design at ArtEZ Fashion in Arnhem, graduating as part of
Generation 12. His collection caught designer Marc Jacobs’ eye and he
was selected as one of five finalists for Designer for Tomorrow by
Peek and Cloppenburg. Since then he has held expositions for his work
around the world and in addition to working on his own brand, he also
works freelance for brands such as Karl Lagerfeld.

Christopher says his collection was inspired by the urban nomad. “The
Nomadum collection gives a look in the different worlds of nomads.” He
used denim combined with alpaca wool to create a bomber jacket, for
example, a time consuming process which took 6 hours per panel to
make. He also created a denim bomber jacket, one he liked so much that
he ended up crafting a version for himself to wear during his
collection presentation to the judges.

Goldschmied, who was one of the four judges for the debut award
ceremony along with Jason Denham, founder of denim label Denham, Rene
Strolenberg, co-owner of denim store Tenue de Nimes and Norma Quinto,
managing director of Berlin based consultancy Quintoemilio GmbH, were
given the difficult task of selecting the winner. “It is absolutely
true that we had a difficult job in making a decision,” said ‘the
Godfather of denim’.

“I would have liked to give an award to everyone because I think they
put so much passion and energy into this project and they made this
project successful.” However, in the end there could be only one
winner. When asked if he was disappointed he did not win, Samji
laughed and said that just being a part of this project was already an
incredible experience for him. The London College of Fashion graduate
revealed that he had never thought of working with denim prior to
working on this project. “It really made me think about denim in a new
way.”

Bhavesh Samji: “I never realized how big the denim industry
really was before this project”

“I never realized how big the denim industry really was before this
project…this type of challenge limits your creativity to a certain
extent, but also makes you think of how to use fabrics in innovative
ways,” he adds. The competition also helped him see the commercial
side of the denim industry, and realize how denim is a viable fabric
to everyone. It helped him push his boundaries as a designer, to see
what denim really could be. “I liked being pushed to use it, and in
the future I will definitely be more open to incorporating it into my
work.”

The Global Denim Awards also celebrated the denim mill which produced
the best fabric during the competition, which went to Turkish vertical
denim mill Bossa. “We recognize the amazing job they have done in
sustainability and their ongoing determination to succeed. They
invested a lot of money and resources into the project.”

“Everything we are doing is a dream,” said Andrew Olah, founder of
denim trade fair Kingpins on the Global Denim Awards. “You could not
even imagine something like this, unless you are a dreamer.”

Photo credit: Simon Trel

After Black Friday led to a weekend long shopping bonanza in the UK,
consumers continued to splash out during Cyber Monday, although their
appetite for online bargains had noticeably weakened.

IMRG, online retail experts, estimate that close to 451,000 pounds were
spent per minute during Cyber Monday, bringing the total spend close to 650
million pounds, which is a 26 percent increase from last year and making it
one of the busiest online shopping days yet.

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Black Friday online sales overshadowed Cyber Monday in the UK

However, this amount was overshadowed by the estimated 810 million pounds
spent online by UK shoppers on Black Friday, as the borrowed retail holiday
stand to take the top spot as largest shopping day of the year from Boxing
Day, the day after Christmas, once store sales have been taken into
account.

Last week Friday saw UK shoppers jump online to snag deals offered by
retailers for the day, with a number of websites crashing, including John
Lewis, Net-a-Porter and Topshop, as they were unable to cope with the
demand. In comparison, most retailers websites were functioning normally
during Cyber Monday, which was previously coined as the day to shop online
by American industry body the National Retail Federation in 2005 to
encourage consumers to shop online.

Data gathered by online shopping tracker Postcode Anywhere also notes a lag
in online orders placed on Cyber Monday in comparison to Black Friday.
According to the figures, 267,370 orders had been registered by 6 pm on
Monday night, which is more than last year but less than the 404,835 orders
logged by the same time on Black Friday.

“The Black Friday sales saw Britain’s most savvy shoppers logging online in
the early hours to secure the best bargains and spend their cash,”
commented Guy Mucklow, Postcode Anywhere’s chief executive. “It is clear
that because many of those deals spanned the payday weekend, many shoppers
were already spent by the time Cyber Monday landed.”

With improved delivery services, click and collect services and improved
online connectivity, Cyber Monday has lost some of its appeal as the top
online shopping day of the year as more consumers leave their shopping
until the last minute.

Mintel, market analysts predict that the UK total online spend during
Christmas could hit 4.7 billion pounds, whilst Experian expects next week
Monday, also known as Manic Monday to see British shoppers spend close to
470,000 pounds a minute, with more and more consumers have a great
confidence in pre-Christmas delivery.

Dutch designers Jonathan Christopher and Nanna Blaaderen were named the
winners of the 2015/2014 International Woolmark Prize regional finals for
Europe during an event held in Antwerp on Monday. Jonathan Christopher was
hailed as the winner of the men’s wear category and Nanna Blaaderen the
winner of the women’s wear category.

“I had no idea I would win. Nobody had any idea. You have no expectation of
what the jury is looking for, or expects,” said Christopher to
FashionUnited NL on winning. “I think I eventually won, because I want to
take the use of wool in a completely new direction. I used wol denim and
that was quite difficult to find. I must have placed about eighty
or ninety calls to different wool suppliers and denim suppliers.”

“You feel like you are walking on clouds when you are here,” added
Blaaderen. “It was a great honor to be nominated, so the atmosphere was
quite pleasent and grateful. I told myself a few times to really enjoy this
moment because you are unlikely to experience it all again.”

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The two winners were both awarded 50,000 Australian dollars (24,500 pounds)
to further develop their collections for the next stage of the competition.
Christopher and Blaaderen will go to compete in the global finals together
with the British Isles winners Agi & Sam and Teatum Jones which take place
in January and February 2016.

The winner of the Woolmark Prize will be awarded with an additional
100,000 Australian dollars (29,000 pounds) and have their collections
stocked at international retailers including Harvey Nichols, Joyce , Saks
5th Avenue, 10 Corso Como, David Jones and online at My Theresa and
Matchesfashion.com.

It has been nearly six months since Gucci replaced its creative director
Frida Giannini with its then accessories designer Alessandro Michele. It
was a highly publicised change of guard, with an acrimonious split between
Gucci and both its creative and financial directors, after the house
suffered consecutive sales losses and lukewarm receptions to its
collections. Now that a full season has passed, the Florentine fashion
house has come full circle and confidently turned its image around with its
new autumn winter 2015 campaign under Michele’s full creative control.

Back in January during men’s fashion week the industry was reinvigorated by
Michele’s unofficial debut but it was not until his first official
womenswear collection in Milan in February that a clear parallel could be
seen with the men’s; sharing a new sultry but understated sexiness that
referenced the 70s, but ultimately had a contemporary urban sensibility.

The new campaign issues a new era for Gucci, and quietly affirms its
prowess as one of the world’s leading luxury brands. Michele
stated: “Through this collection I tried to record not merely the present,
but the threshold between the ‘no longer’ and the ‘not yet’,” referencing
the quote included with the campaign imagery by Italian philosopher Giorgio
Agamben. The Agamben quote states, “Those who are truly contemporary are
those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its
demands.”
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London – US-based fashion brand Maiyet, known for it celebration of rare
artisanal skills from places such as India, Indonesia, Italy and Peru, has
been awarded the coveted Butterfly Mark for its committed to quality,
craftsmanship and responsible sourcing.

Awarded by Positive Luxury, the organisation that communicates and
celebrates luxury brands’ sustainable actions, the Butterfly Mark is a seal
of approval that enables consumers#### Title to recognise a brand as being
trustworthy, as well as showcasing a brands commitment to people and the
plant, through sourcing traceability policies and community development
activities.

Positive Luxury CEO and co-founder Diana Verde Nieto said: “The
commitment Maiyet has to supporting master craftsmanship worldwide and
putting social good and ethical sourcing at the heart of their business,
whilst upholding the quality and aesthetics of a luxury fashion brand, is
incredible. The brand is proof that doing good and doing well can go hand
in hand.”

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Maiyet CEO and co-founder Paul van Zyl added: “We are deeply supportive
of Positive Luxury’s ambition to recognise global luxury brands who are
committed to positive and sustainable social change, and we are honoured to
have been awarded the blue butterfly mark as a symbol of our
partnership.”

Other fashion brands who have been awarded the Butterfly Mark include
Alexander McQueen, Ada Zanditon, Abury Collection, Beach Candy and Beulah
London.

Alessandro Michele’s second womenswear
collection since taking the creative reins at Gucci was unveiled to rave
reviews on Wednesday as Milan’s Spring/Summer 2016 shows got off to a flier.

A collection immediately dubbed “geek chic” featured elements
including
oversized glasses of a kind last seen on 1970s librarians, pussy bow
blouses,
lots of berets, much intricate embroidery, including some on biker jackets
featuring as one of several androgynous pieces.
The overall feel was quirky feminine in line with the direction Michele
signalled with his first collection in February — but there was also
something almost perversely anti-glamour about it too.
One translucent dress was paired with what looked like an oversized pair
of
control pants.

It seems, however, that Michele can do no wrong at the moment and the
tone
of early reaction online was fairly rapturous with glossy magazine
commentators confidently predicting another season of waiting lists for the
hottest items.

Hollywood stars Dakota Johnson and Salma Hayek were among the Michele
fans
to brave the torrential rain in Milan to take in a show staged in a disused
old train platform.
With a chilly breeze sweeping down from the Alps, it was not the day to
be
strutting around in a diaphonous number but it was not until the courtesy
cars
started getting stuck in the mud outside that the models started to
complain.
In his show notes, Michele said he had drawn inspiration from the “Carte
de
Tendre”, an imaginary map charting the path to love that was published in
the
17th Century by French literary figure Madeleine de Scudery.
“Each object in the collection is offered up as a small atlas of
emotions,”
he says.
“A treasure chest of aesthetic references, a sentimental cartography in
which patterns, extraordinary craftsmanship and rarefied materials are
interwoven.”

Although Gucci is owned by French holding company Kering most of its
production and design are still Italian and the prospect of another sell-out
season for such a big player will come as welcome news for an industry which
entered this fashion week in upbeat mood.

A backdrop of strong sales at home and abroad and a revamp of Milan’s
fashion week infrastructure have contributed to the optimistic feel.
Michele, a shaggy-haired Roman, went from being an accessories designer
known only to fashion insiders to one of the biggest jobs in the industry
following the abrupt departure of his long-standing predecessor Frida
Giannini
at the start of this year.

Famously, he only had five days to finish off Giannini’s final
menswear
collection and barely a month to put on his first womenswear show in
February.
He pulled it off in triumphant fashion with a collection that bore many
of
the hallmarks of his own, eccentric personal style — best described as a
time
travel tapestry in which English civil war royalist meets California dropout
from the 1970s.
Gucci’s bosses had said they wanted a new direction to turn around the
brand’s flagging fortunes, and they got it. Now it seems he has delivered
again.

Business is booming

Italy’s textile and clothing exports, dominated by the high
value-added
fashion sector, hit a record high in July and the national fashion body
Camera
della Moda is anticipating growth of 5.5 percent in all sales in 2015.

For an industry that turned over 61.2 billion euros last year, that
translates to a lot of secured jobs and significant margins for new
investment.
“Italian fashion has benefited from a stronger dollar and a return of
confidence among European and American consumers,” said Gaetano Marzotto,
head
of the textile group Marzotto.

“It is true that in China, luxury products, watches and jewellery in
particular have seen a fall in sales due to anti-corruption measures, but
the
accessible luxury that characterises the made-in-Italy trademark have held
up
well.”
Giuseppe Angiolini, honorary chairman of the Italian chamber of fashion
buyers, says his compatriots appear to be falling in love with fashion
again.
“More than a recovery, I’d say it is an awakening,” he said. “Two years
ago
everyone was totally fed up with fashion. Now we are seeing customers’
desire
and interest is back.” (AFP)

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Derbyshire-based womenswear label David Nipper has launched a new sewing
school to help address the textile industries skills deficit and to nurture
local talent by passing on its specialist skills.

The sewing school will be run by two of David Nieper’s most accomplished
dressmakers: Carol Shaw, with 14 years’ experience and Sue Cook with 27
years’ experience, both of which will be responsible for design room
sampling and advanced sewing techniques.

The fashion label, which was founded in 1961 prides itself on its
manufacturing in the UK, stating that it has never gone offshore to source
labour, and the sewing school is its way of passing on its specialist
tailoring and dressmaking skills to a younger generation.

In a statement, the fashion house points to research from the British
Fashion Council, which found that 60 percent of workers in fashion and
textile manufacturing are over the age of 40, and its goal with the new
sewing school is to help train up the next generation before the skills are
lost forever.

The 12-week course started this month with its first four trainees aged
from 18, including two school leavers and two more experienced women who
are changing career.

Carole Shaw, senior supervisor, David Nieper sewing room said: “Our
trainees will start by getting to know their machines and develop thread
control. They will learn dressmaking essentials including cross-stitch,
overlock, lockstich and bar tacking. We start with paper patterns to learn
the basic principles then progress to a range of different fabrics
including; cottons, silks, elastics and wools and learn how to work with
each.

“Many seamstresses in clothes manufacturing only make one part of a
garment e.g. a leg, arm or collar on a production line but our trainees
will benefit from learning how to make the whole garment. At the end of the
course we are hoping to offer jobs to trainees who have demonstrated a good
eye, good coordination and a good aptitude for creating fashion in luxury
fabrics.”

David Nieper looking to pass on specialist skills with new sewing
school

Bethan Kerry, a recent graduate from Swanwick Hall school in Derbyshire,
added: “We are learning such a lot, and although the patterns are
repetitive to start it is satisfying when you get the hang of it.

“At the end of the course it will be rewarding to actually make a
complete garment, as well as having developed a new skill and the
possibility of a job. Most jobs in fashion are in retail and it is very
difficult to find something like this that allows you to be creative.”

At the end of the 12 weeks, successful trainees will have the option to
take up a full time position in the David Nieper sewing room as junior
machinist or extend their traineeship.

Christopher Nieper, managing director, commented: “There is a critical
skills shortage in fashion manufacturing, made worse by relentless
offshoring in recent years. It’s crucial to nurture local talent and pass
these valuable dressmaking skills to the next generation.

“We are delighted to pass specialist skills to the next generation. Our
sewing school is only the start, there are many rewarding careers in
fashion manufacturing alongside sewing such as pattern cutting, fabric
cutting, knitwear and quality control.”

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